Table of Content
- Bring back the Surface Book
- What Types of Hardwood Floors Can Be Painted?
- Painted Wood Floors, Everything You Need To Know
- How is technological innovation breaking down barriers and increasing access to financial services?
- How Much Paint Is Needed For Your Wood Floors?
- Is there a paved road toward cloud native resiliency?
- Why Would You Even Consider Painted Wood Floors?
The oil-based version is going to provide the more durable finish. Can you please advise and of course thanks for any light you can shed on these questions. The epoxy I used said for interior use only and is not UV protected. Since this is an outside patio table, I wanted the weather and UV protection.
If yes, what do product do you recommend. These problems seem overlooked by most finishing instructions. There will almost always be little dust nibs in the final coat. Even if we talk all the standard precautions, its still going to happen. So what I usually recommend doing is waiting a few weeks. Use the piece at little as possible and give that urethane time to completely cure.
Bring back the Surface Book
I sanded the wood to remove some of the PT for a distressed, authentic look, then prettied the rest of the wheel up with red cedar on the trim and the spokes. What I was going to do is just treat the wood with a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine for maybe 2-5 coats since I heard that would pop the grain nicely. Then I looked up what I thought would the best varnish to protect it and came across Helmsmans oil based spar urethane from minwax. Not only for the flexible nature of it with temp changes but also for the UV protection. So I was going to apply a few coats of this with maybe 10-20% of turpentine mixed in.
Some people prefer to toss a brush after each use, but when you buy a quality brush it can last for weeks of use with proper care. Urethanes are cleaned from brushes using mineral spirits. Purdy makes a metal toothed comb that separates/aligns the bristles to aid in cleaning.
What Types of Hardwood Floors Can Be Painted?
This can actually be rather fun, especially if you do it with your significant other or a friend. If the putty is under the film finish, which it sounds like it is, then the stain isn’t going to be very effective long term. That poly layer really doesn’t want anything on top of it, and most stain will just make a mess and never really cure properly. Now there are things like gel stains which contain some poly that will cure on the surface.
But enough of that….on to your issue. Frankly, I think its way too cold to apply any finish. The recommended temps for applying stain and poly are in the 70’s. By the time you get down to the area, I would be afraid for the end result. In addition to a long cure time, I would have to imagine the integrity of the finish and bond could very well suffer as well.
Painted Wood Floors, Everything You Need To Know
I have not sprayed or wiped poly – only brushed. Have had excellent results – Thin coats, lightly sanded between each. I just put up about400sf of T & G stained ceiling on a front porch. I decided to stain the boards first and then apply the finish after they were up.

Even in summer, you may not be able to close the door. Just depends on how fast the finish cures. If its still tacky, I wouldn’t close it. And if it were me, I wouldn’t even think about it until the weather is much warmer. I would like to refinish the exterior doors.
Never heard one such complaint from people using Epifanes. A few months back, and at quite an expense, I had a nice set of oak sideboards and an oak headache built for my pickup truck. I elected to finish them myself thinking that I’d save some money. I sealed them with CWF-UV deck and siding sealant. In a short matter of time, the oak developed grey/black spots, I assume from moisture/mildew.
You can also paint the moldings if that was part of the original plan . At this point, you can additional painted designs to the floor and apply the necessary colors to make your creations come to light. Just work carefully, you don’t want to mess up at this point. Use a paint brush to cut the edges of the floor with paint.
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But if you really like the way it applies , I say give it a shot. GF makes great products and I have no doubt you will see the performance described on the can. Unfortunately Laura, you are discovering one of the drawbacks to using a polyurethane product. Yes its durable, but its not easily repairable. Think of each layer like a sheet of plastic wrap. And if there is a wrinkle or flaw in the current layer, and you put another coat on top of it, the old flaw will still telegraph through to the top layer.
There might be some way of diluting it but in the world of wood finishing, that’s not really something we ever need to do. “The duct tape starts to show,” he said. There's no one-size-fits-all solution to what customers want.
And for those that are wondering what my preferred outdoor varnish is, its Epifanes Marine Varnish. Goodness, that shouldn’t have happened. If you are set on painting them, then you will need to sand them as you mentioned. However, if you don’t go down to the wood, you don’t need a primer. But definitely got ALL that lifting finish off the floor, otherwise it will ruin the paint job. Provided everything is dry, either replace the moldings or remove the tape.
The water-based varnish, unfortunately, isn’t quite as durable as its oil-based counterpart. The application method is really up to you. The dilution/wiping is simply an option that makes application easier and lessens the learning curve for folks who are new to finishing. Applying by brush will present you with a few extra challenges, like brush strokes and drips, but you’ll build the finish faster . I used this method on a tv cabinet, 50/50 mineral spirits and good quality spar varnish I had.
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