Thursday, January 16, 2020

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First i want to thank you for you detication to helping others in your feild of expertise. I am currently making cornhole boards and am having troble finding that perfict finish. I am looking for somthin that i can cover over acylic latex paint that will not yellow. I have foundthat varnish has held up fairly well with the pounding of bean bags but with that customer who want a white board helmsman sapr urethane just is not holding up to my standards. I am also concearnd with thebond strenth to water based acyrlic paints due to the nature or the game. If it was cost effective i would epoxy it all.

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Or you can use one of those poly products with color already added. I hear mixed things about these but it might be just the ticket for you. Again, test before committing to the whole project. You know, I actually did that very thing at a neighbors house when they had it built. The builder insisted I use this lacquer-based stain product, which I applied by HVLP.

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6 coats of a wiped-on spar varnish sounds like a reasonable film finish. A cured finish can usually accept an oil-based varnish on top of it if the surface is sufficiently clean, in good shape, and roughed up a bit with sandpaper. But whenever putting new finish on top of old finish, there’s potential for things to go wrong. So yes it’s possible, but I can’t say for certain if the results will be up to your standard. Finishes can trap in moisture and that typically shows itself as a cloudy milky appearance. Now I am not familiar with that particular product so I can’t speak from experience, but with most finishes you can run into a situation where the moisture gets trapped.

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Just keep in mind that an oil-based varnish will yellow a water-based paint, if that’s what you used. So you might look at some water-based products. First thing you should probably do is get yourself a pine board and practice. Staining pine is tricky and staining it blank may not give you the results you hope for. So first confirm the staining process and practice applying your finishing of choice.

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You also don’t need to apply a lot of pressure while doing it. Sheen is the reflective quality of the paint. Although most floor coatings (varnish, etc.) have a sheen value, I will keep this guide focused on colored paint. There are four levels of sheen for wood paint and each has a different reflective quality defined by the percentages below. Starting from the shiniest, they are glossy (75%), semi-gloss (55%), satin (40%) and matte (20%).

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Marc you are like my top reference for finish. I quote you all the time and refer folks to your site as an authority on finishing. I love the video you did way early about all the types and kinds of finishes. Varnish, Polys, Shellac, Water Based Stains, Gel Stains…….I could go on but you did the video.

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When you stir the product, use a stirring stick and stir in each direction about 100 time. And since it flashes so quickly, you might want to dilute with a bit of water. This will give you a bit more working time between application strokes. Now for the ice cream maker, I need to give the disclaimer that I have absolutely NO experience in this are. And what may be best for wood may not be best for the ice cream making process. So if the instructions say you need to swell the wood, I wouldn’t recommend applying a finish to the interior.

The door looked absolutely beautiful. He said we would need to have him apply a new coat of Spar Urethane every couple of years, but yearly would be fine as well just to be on the safe side. One other thing to try is manually creating the matte sheen using steel wool. Just give the varnish a week or so to cure. Varnish isn’t ideal for rubbing out like this but it might be a nice alternative to adding more varnish to the surface.

The floors were pre-finished before they were installed. I am not sure if that is asking too much though. We recently added on to our house and purchased unfinished Mahogany doors.

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The idea of blending the two and thinning the mix has crossed my mind, as well. The stools are made of white oak, maple and Spanish cedar, with oak dowels as hinge pins. I need to finish new deck furnitur made with pressure treated pine.

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If not, we’ll have him send it back and we’ll lightly sand and re-finish. It’s all oil-based finish so they should be compatible. If you can sand down and get the surface looking good, go ahead and switch over to Behlens. You shouldn’t have any adhesion issues.

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Just make sure that you match the type of finish to the latex paint you used. Send me some photos when you are done, sounds like it is going to look great. I always sand if the surface feels rough, regardless of dilution.

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Use both during your varnishing if needed. As far as using Epifanes its up to you. I personally don’t think its any better than Varathane Spar.

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